Cracked, sunken or uneven slab, or a room with no floor yet? We prep the ground and pour a level slab for your flooring.
Concrete floor installation in East Los Angeles means forming, pouring and finishing a flat interior slab, so your house gets a solid floor that can take carpet, tile, wood or whatever flooring you pick.
Most calls start with an old slab that's cracked, sunk or gone uneven, or a room that needs a floor for the first time. The price moves with the size of the floor, how much digging and packing the ground needs, whether the slab gets steel in it, the moisture protection your flooring calls for, and any stain or finish. Your written estimate spells out what's included, so you can see where the money goes.
The schedule turns on three things. There's how long the ground takes to get ready, the weather on pour day, and curing, the wait while the concrete hardens before anyone walks on it or lays flooring. This is the work California's contractor board licenses concrete contractors to do, from forming and pouring to placing and finishing flat concrete, and it's what our crew does every week.
Three things decide whether a new floor stays flat and keeps your flooring in good shape. They're the ground under it, the flooring on top and the timing on pour day.
The subgrade is the dirt and base the slab rests on, and it matters more than the steel inside. Industry guidance on slabs says that if the ground under a slab isn't right, the slab is far more likely to fail no matter how it's reinforced. Ask any contractor how they'll prep the ground, not just what goes in the pour.
Water vapor can work up through a slab, and when it does, adhesives let go and flooring can warp or discolor. Older industry guidance says a slab needs moisture protection when carpet, tile, wood, vinyl-type or seamless flooring will cover it. That's why your flooring choice belongs in the plan before the pour, not after.
Finishing, cutting control joints and curing all have a window, and missing it can leave cracking, a dusty or flaking top, or high and low spots. Control joints are grooves cut into the fresh slab so it cracks along a straight line we chose instead of wherever it wants.
From the first call to the final walk-through, you'll know who's handling your floor and what comes next. Here's how a job runs with us.
Call (213) 338-1030 or send a message through the form with your address and what you're planning. We get back to you to set up a time for me to come look at the job.
I come out, measure the floor, ask how you'll use the room and what flooring is going on it, and find out which office handles your address. Then you get a written quote that spells out what's included.
Our crew lead runs the job from prep to cleanup with our own crew. That covers digging out, packing the base, setting forms, pouring, finishing and cutting the joints.
Before we pack up, I walk the finished floor with you. I go over how long to stay off it and when flooring can go down, and the FAQ below lays out those waits.
Before we talk about the pour, I want to know what's going on top of the floor. Tile, wood and carpet all care about moisture coming up through the slab, so your flooring decides whether we put moisture protection under the concrete and how we plan the finish. Telling me at the estimate costs nothing. Finding out after the flooring is down costs a lot.
Then the ground gets prepped right. We dig out the soft dirt, bring in base and pack it down, because a base that's only raked level settles with the dirt under it and takes your floor along. We set the forms, check them for level and plan the pour for cooler hours, since concrete poured in midday heat can end up with a weak, dusty top.
After finishing, we cut the control joints on time so the cracks that come go where we put them. I'll tell you straight that a little cracking is normal, and the FAQ covers why. If your project also needs new concrete steps at a doorway or a concrete pool deck out back, we can plan that flatwork, the outdoor slabs, along with your floor.
A slab with rebar, the steel inside that holds the pieces tight if it cracks, costs more than a plain pad. Under a finished living space I usually lean toward reinforcing, but steel won't make up for bad ground.
Most floors get carpet, tile or wood. Some owners want stained concrete as the floor itself, which costs extra on top of the slab. If the budget's tight, cut the stain, not the base. You can stain later, but you can't redo the ground under a poured floor.
Send the form and we'll get back to you within one business day to set up a visit. The estimate is free and done at your property, and it comes with no obligation. I come out, measure and hand you a written quote that spells out what's included.
(213) 338-1030East Los Angeles is unincorporated, so permits here come from LA County Public Works, not a city hall. The county's list of work that generally needs a permit names new buildings, additions, patios, remodels and grading, and it doesn't name concrete floors. If your floor is part of an addition or remodel, that's on the list. Either way, we check with the county for your address before we set a date, and when a permit is needed, we take care of it.
The county only issues a permit to a properly licensed contractor, to the owner in certain cases, or to an agent of either one. Work done without a required permit counts as illegal construction there, which can hurt resale and get insurance claims denied. The state's small-job exemption for unlicensed work went from $500 to $1,000, but it only covers work that needs no permit, done by someone with no employees on the job.
Most floors we pour around here go into houses getting a room added, a garage converted or a worn-out slab replaced. We're based in East Los Angeles and do the same work in the cities around it, like Montebello and Downey, plus plenty of others nearby.
I started this business in 2013, so we've been at it 13 years. Before that I worked concrete every summer through school, hauling forms and finishing next to guys who'd done it for decades. I still come out to every estimate and write the quote myself, so the person who measured your floor is the person who priced it.
We're fully licensed and insured. Every job is backed by our satisfaction guarantee. I'd rather lose a job by quoting it right than win it by skipping the ground prep, because that's the part of a floor nobody can fix later. Call (213) 338-1030 or send us your project details to set up a visit.
A deck around a pool takes splashing and bare feet every day, so it needs a finish with grip and a surface that sends water away from the pool.
A new floor can change how high your door threshold sits, and new concrete steps outside bring the entry back to an even, comfortable rise.
Pick your city below to see the concrete work we do there. These are the cities with their own page, and we work in plenty of other cities nearby too.
A new concrete slab without staining or stamping in the Los Angeles area usually costs about $5 to $14 per square foot. That's the going market rate, not our quote. Where your floor lands depends on its size, the ground prep and the flooring going on top, and your written estimate spells out what's included.
Probably a little, and that's normal. The concrete industry's own floor guide says that even with good design and proper construction, a floor with no cracking or curling at all isn't realistic. Curling is the edges lifting slightly as the slab dries. Good ground prep and joints cut on time keep most cracks small and along the lines we chose.
A slab should be walkable within 48 hours. Concrete takes about a month to fully cure, so to be safe you may want to wait a week before moving heavier loads onto it. Moisture in the mix, temperatures, humidity, wind, slab thickness and the mix itself all change how fast that happens.
Only after the slab has cured, dried out and been tested to confirm moisture isn't coming through it. That test protects your tile, wood or carpet from the vapor problem covered above. Plan the flooring installer's date around the cure, not the pour day.
Have a rough size of the floor and know what flooring you plan to put on it. Those two things shape the ground prep, the moisture protection and the price, so the quote I write on the first visit covers the whole job. Clear a path to the room so I can measure.
We pick up any day from 7 AM to 11 PM at (213) 338-1030, or you can use the form whenever it suits you.
